A Letter from Africa written by Fergal Hanlon (31st July 1999) www.tourmakeady.com
Hello all, (Salabunanaii)
Well it's "The last day of winter" out here today and the temperatures reached the 30's. So as you can guess I wouldn't like to be simmering here during the hot rainy season in December. So the weather is still PERFECT, and other than "a tummy flu" I've been 100%. I've been adapting quite well to the African way of life …. everything is so different …… and still everyday something new and amazing happens or is to be seen. Even the stars are different and the night's sky is a tapestry of light and design, which is quite breath taking. After 5 weeks I still have not got used to the sunsets out here which are beyond any description. Even the moon is different out here in size, shape and colour. I have almost forgotten what clouds look like and now understand why people dance half-naked in the fresh summer rain. There has been no rain here for the past 3 months and none expected for at least 2 more. The hospital has been quiet for the past few weeks, so I've become more involved with other medical services in the area.
The community AIDS outreach programme has been a great experience of the true African rural life. It involves home based care for those who are terminally ill and for their families. The medical side is quite basic. It involves no heroics, no satisfying recoveries, no real hope, it simply allows the person to "slip away" a bit more comfortably. The complications of terminal stage AIDS out here are so bizarre there's really no point in elaborating. Last week I also got involved in the "local clinics", which are a kind of a small day-hospital but without any doctors. My function was meant to be solely to observe but as I had a stethoscope and pen-torch I was better equipped than the clinic so I got to do quite a bit. The children here (some anyway) scream at the sight of me, they shout "Nunu!!" which is Ndebelli for "Boogie Man". The nursing staff and parents seem to find it hilarious, but it's getting a bit embarrassing. One lady told me to try painting myself, another recommended a week of sun!! Unfortunately I'm peeling which makes life even more difficult as some of the mothers are afraid of me now thinking I have some terrible disease which I may spread to their terrified child.
But the clinic is a great experience and involves seeing the real side of medicine out here. Next week I plan to go to the Public "government funded" (i.e. zero funds Hospital). It is actually called "St Patrick's". It was the trojan work of an Irish priest Fr. Noel Byrne from Laois, which ensured that those without adequate funds (nearly everyone) would have access to some form of medical help. I believe the Hospital is full and people are now sleeping on the mattresses from their own homes. The corridors, kitchen, storage area etc are now miniature hospital wards. There is only one doctor in the whole hospital and he's on duty 7 days/nights per week, Maternity, Surgery, Medicine, Paediatrics etc…. "General Specialist". I felt it was more prudent for me to give all the medicines and supplies which I brought over to this hospital which now has nothing in line of medicines storage area or dispensary since they never have stores. At the moment examination gloves are only to be used in extreme circumstances! Unbelievable really. I'm looking forward to the experience but I feel a bit guilty really since it's so easy to walk in spend a bit of time walking around, learning a little, walking out and really not assisting the staff with the crisis they face daily.
The nurses over here are gifted people with wonderful skills. The amount of responsibility they take on everyday in stitching, diagnosing, prescribing, reviewing and discharging patients is more that your average inter doctor is capable of doing, without a doubt these people keep the thread on which the medical service over here is supported on from snapping. Medically it is all very different too, Malaria is starting to increase in existence with the rising temperatures. HIV and AIDS related deaths due to TB, meningitis and suicides are a daily occurrence too. The standard Irish complain - high blood pressure, heart attacks, diabetes etc all exist too but they are often not well controlled and not given high priority since they are not related to the main epidemic. We still see the odd snake bite, I saw a scorpion bite yesterday … NOT PLEASANT. It hasn't all been medical. Indeed I've spent quite a while doing the local things. Today I went to see "my team" play against a local team. The match was due to start at 3 0 Clock - which is really 3.45 "African time". I arrived at 3.45 and the game was in progress. They had been playing for 10 minutes! Anyway I was walking around the pitch to the sideline where "my team's" substitutes were seated when I noticed that I was the only white man in the place. The match was being held in the main townships compound and attended by about one thousand locals. I was shouted at by about a dozen guys seated on the ground all drinking out of what can best be described as a washing basin full of local brew = chbooku. A thick vomit coloured "warm" drink for the social occasion, lethal levels of alcohol of course! I had to go over, they offered me the basin and I politely declined, I said "Apostle of Christ" to them and they nodded allowing me to escape from drinking the stuff! I had been told that a new church "The Apostle of Christ" had been set up in the area. They were all non-drinkers, so no offence was taken by the group. A brief chat ensued - no whites except Fr. Noel had ever attended these local rival soccer games before. They were wondering if I was mad or just a bit slow, I told them I was a bit of both. The craic was good, but I confess that I was nevertheless a bit nervous and anxious to see a familiar face. There was no need to feel nervous since all these I met were sincere in their welcome and very keen to "educate me" on the true African experience! The team lost a close run match 3 - 2, the atmosphere was excellent and the day passed nicely. Three players played bare foot, as there were not enough boots to go around!
The funniest moment was when a large group of kids 2 - 5 year olds came over to peal me! Last week a young kid was amazed at the skin on my arm coming off so I pulled off a little to show him not be afraid. This week he brought all his friends to have a touch, they all got a 3 pence ice cream too so it looks like I won't be going to next weeks match unless I take out a bank loan! Another great experience during the week was the very fortunate crossing of paths with 2 South Africans. They were based on a game park as "Anti-poachers". With so much free time on their hands they agreed to bring Karl and myself for a tour of the land they patrolled. We saw some game but the real event was the dinner! They had shot a "Warthog" 4 days earlier and were slowly making their way through it, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner was Warthog!! This is one of the ugliest animals I've ever seen. An axe was used to "expose more fillet" on the carcasses backbone… and my God was it tough… it resembled chewing a lump of a Massey Ferguson tyre, but it was tasty. The night finished with a drive through the bush and spotting a leopard! This is a very very rare occurrence in these parts and they said it was their first so the whole experience out here has been a very mixed one, which is bound to become even more mixed when I travel around in 2 weeks time. My experience with the white population has not been quite so mixed. For the greater part they've made me feel entirely embarrassed that I'm white! Other than 2 men I've found all others to be narrow-minded, ignorant, racist, supremacists. The terrible thing is that they all try to be friendly and tell you to "get your white ass on these seats" at local pubs and places to attempt to intimidate and out number the ever-growing black populations. You really can't believe how it feels to be walking down the street with a guy the same colour as you, with local men seeing your associate and seeing you as they see him… racist, ignorant, evil. The black population is (for the greater part) the poorer member in society. They live in one-room boxes with outdoor fires as cookers and a hole in the ground as a toilet.
A shared water-hole is the only source of water for many… the women carry buckets on their heads the 2 - 5 kms to the waterhole. Children are malnourished, their hair thin, their tummies swollen, their skinny bodies carried on shoeless feet. Fewer children have shoes than don't! This image contrasts sadly with the picture of a typical white family. 5 - 6 bedroom house, overweight, drunken, no regard for other, superiority complexes oozing from every sweaty pore! Nearly every white family has at least one maid who is paid £14 per month… and one gardener/caretaker on £17 per month. It really doesn't make sense. Fr Noel has been deported three times for his part in attempting to legally represent parties who have been socially and morally treated pathetically. God this place can make you angry! Apologies for the lecture on "Social inequality and reform" To change the plot completely I guess I should congratulate all of you on the success of the Senior's and Minor's. My special congratulations to Rock and his son… I hope the run continues! I won't be back in time for the semi's so good luck and best wishes.
I'm sure the population of Tourmakeady has exploded over the past couple of months… a cosmopolitan village of multi-ethnic proportions with every colour, race and creed stopping in Paddy's for a bite to eat and a glass of the funny black chbooku!! I often wonder… has anybody caught a fish in the lake recently… or even spotted one. I still have to break my run of ten + excursions with rod in hand only to come back a few worms lighter and still hungry! They have to be hiding. Well, this rambling, waffling, babbling oaf should really sign off and hit the hay (I actually have a bed!). Tomorrow is Sunday and the Mass begins at 8am (8.20 African time) and steamrollers on for 2 - 2 ½ hours. Last week I understood one word during the whole affair "AMEN". The rest was all "Nambia" and Ndebeth"… you wouldn't believe the singing, dancing, bongos, screaming and all-in good craic. The masses here make's Aiseirí look tame! So anyway good luck to you all, I'll see you in September for a quiet jar and a chat.
God Bless, Slán agus beannacht
Fergal Hanlon
Well it's "The last day of winter" out here today and the temperatures reached the 30's. So as you can guess I wouldn't like to be simmering here during the hot rainy season in December. So the weather is still PERFECT, and other than "a tummy flu" I've been 100%. I've been adapting quite well to the African way of life …. everything is so different …… and still everyday something new and amazing happens or is to be seen. Even the stars are different and the night's sky is a tapestry of light and design, which is quite breath taking. After 5 weeks I still have not got used to the sunsets out here which are beyond any description. Even the moon is different out here in size, shape and colour. I have almost forgotten what clouds look like and now understand why people dance half-naked in the fresh summer rain. There has been no rain here for the past 3 months and none expected for at least 2 more. The hospital has been quiet for the past few weeks, so I've become more involved with other medical services in the area.
The community AIDS outreach programme has been a great experience of the true African rural life. It involves home based care for those who are terminally ill and for their families. The medical side is quite basic. It involves no heroics, no satisfying recoveries, no real hope, it simply allows the person to "slip away" a bit more comfortably. The complications of terminal stage AIDS out here are so bizarre there's really no point in elaborating. Last week I also got involved in the "local clinics", which are a kind of a small day-hospital but without any doctors. My function was meant to be solely to observe but as I had a stethoscope and pen-torch I was better equipped than the clinic so I got to do quite a bit. The children here (some anyway) scream at the sight of me, they shout "Nunu!!" which is Ndebelli for "Boogie Man". The nursing staff and parents seem to find it hilarious, but it's getting a bit embarrassing. One lady told me to try painting myself, another recommended a week of sun!! Unfortunately I'm peeling which makes life even more difficult as some of the mothers are afraid of me now thinking I have some terrible disease which I may spread to their terrified child.
But the clinic is a great experience and involves seeing the real side of medicine out here. Next week I plan to go to the Public "government funded" (i.e. zero funds Hospital). It is actually called "St Patrick's". It was the trojan work of an Irish priest Fr. Noel Byrne from Laois, which ensured that those without adequate funds (nearly everyone) would have access to some form of medical help. I believe the Hospital is full and people are now sleeping on the mattresses from their own homes. The corridors, kitchen, storage area etc are now miniature hospital wards. There is only one doctor in the whole hospital and he's on duty 7 days/nights per week, Maternity, Surgery, Medicine, Paediatrics etc…. "General Specialist". I felt it was more prudent for me to give all the medicines and supplies which I brought over to this hospital which now has nothing in line of medicines storage area or dispensary since they never have stores. At the moment examination gloves are only to be used in extreme circumstances! Unbelievable really. I'm looking forward to the experience but I feel a bit guilty really since it's so easy to walk in spend a bit of time walking around, learning a little, walking out and really not assisting the staff with the crisis they face daily.
The nurses over here are gifted people with wonderful skills. The amount of responsibility they take on everyday in stitching, diagnosing, prescribing, reviewing and discharging patients is more that your average inter doctor is capable of doing, without a doubt these people keep the thread on which the medical service over here is supported on from snapping. Medically it is all very different too, Malaria is starting to increase in existence with the rising temperatures. HIV and AIDS related deaths due to TB, meningitis and suicides are a daily occurrence too. The standard Irish complain - high blood pressure, heart attacks, diabetes etc all exist too but they are often not well controlled and not given high priority since they are not related to the main epidemic. We still see the odd snake bite, I saw a scorpion bite yesterday … NOT PLEASANT. It hasn't all been medical. Indeed I've spent quite a while doing the local things. Today I went to see "my team" play against a local team. The match was due to start at 3 0 Clock - which is really 3.45 "African time". I arrived at 3.45 and the game was in progress. They had been playing for 10 minutes! Anyway I was walking around the pitch to the sideline where "my team's" substitutes were seated when I noticed that I was the only white man in the place. The match was being held in the main townships compound and attended by about one thousand locals. I was shouted at by about a dozen guys seated on the ground all drinking out of what can best be described as a washing basin full of local brew = chbooku. A thick vomit coloured "warm" drink for the social occasion, lethal levels of alcohol of course! I had to go over, they offered me the basin and I politely declined, I said "Apostle of Christ" to them and they nodded allowing me to escape from drinking the stuff! I had been told that a new church "The Apostle of Christ" had been set up in the area. They were all non-drinkers, so no offence was taken by the group. A brief chat ensued - no whites except Fr. Noel had ever attended these local rival soccer games before. They were wondering if I was mad or just a bit slow, I told them I was a bit of both. The craic was good, but I confess that I was nevertheless a bit nervous and anxious to see a familiar face. There was no need to feel nervous since all these I met were sincere in their welcome and very keen to "educate me" on the true African experience! The team lost a close run match 3 - 2, the atmosphere was excellent and the day passed nicely. Three players played bare foot, as there were not enough boots to go around!
The funniest moment was when a large group of kids 2 - 5 year olds came over to peal me! Last week a young kid was amazed at the skin on my arm coming off so I pulled off a little to show him not be afraid. This week he brought all his friends to have a touch, they all got a 3 pence ice cream too so it looks like I won't be going to next weeks match unless I take out a bank loan! Another great experience during the week was the very fortunate crossing of paths with 2 South Africans. They were based on a game park as "Anti-poachers". With so much free time on their hands they agreed to bring Karl and myself for a tour of the land they patrolled. We saw some game but the real event was the dinner! They had shot a "Warthog" 4 days earlier and were slowly making their way through it, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner was Warthog!! This is one of the ugliest animals I've ever seen. An axe was used to "expose more fillet" on the carcasses backbone… and my God was it tough… it resembled chewing a lump of a Massey Ferguson tyre, but it was tasty. The night finished with a drive through the bush and spotting a leopard! This is a very very rare occurrence in these parts and they said it was their first so the whole experience out here has been a very mixed one, which is bound to become even more mixed when I travel around in 2 weeks time. My experience with the white population has not been quite so mixed. For the greater part they've made me feel entirely embarrassed that I'm white! Other than 2 men I've found all others to be narrow-minded, ignorant, racist, supremacists. The terrible thing is that they all try to be friendly and tell you to "get your white ass on these seats" at local pubs and places to attempt to intimidate and out number the ever-growing black populations. You really can't believe how it feels to be walking down the street with a guy the same colour as you, with local men seeing your associate and seeing you as they see him… racist, ignorant, evil. The black population is (for the greater part) the poorer member in society. They live in one-room boxes with outdoor fires as cookers and a hole in the ground as a toilet.
A shared water-hole is the only source of water for many… the women carry buckets on their heads the 2 - 5 kms to the waterhole. Children are malnourished, their hair thin, their tummies swollen, their skinny bodies carried on shoeless feet. Fewer children have shoes than don't! This image contrasts sadly with the picture of a typical white family. 5 - 6 bedroom house, overweight, drunken, no regard for other, superiority complexes oozing from every sweaty pore! Nearly every white family has at least one maid who is paid £14 per month… and one gardener/caretaker on £17 per month. It really doesn't make sense. Fr Noel has been deported three times for his part in attempting to legally represent parties who have been socially and morally treated pathetically. God this place can make you angry! Apologies for the lecture on "Social inequality and reform" To change the plot completely I guess I should congratulate all of you on the success of the Senior's and Minor's. My special congratulations to Rock and his son… I hope the run continues! I won't be back in time for the semi's so good luck and best wishes.
I'm sure the population of Tourmakeady has exploded over the past couple of months… a cosmopolitan village of multi-ethnic proportions with every colour, race and creed stopping in Paddy's for a bite to eat and a glass of the funny black chbooku!! I often wonder… has anybody caught a fish in the lake recently… or even spotted one. I still have to break my run of ten + excursions with rod in hand only to come back a few worms lighter and still hungry! They have to be hiding. Well, this rambling, waffling, babbling oaf should really sign off and hit the hay (I actually have a bed!). Tomorrow is Sunday and the Mass begins at 8am (8.20 African time) and steamrollers on for 2 - 2 ½ hours. Last week I understood one word during the whole affair "AMEN". The rest was all "Nambia" and Ndebeth"… you wouldn't believe the singing, dancing, bongos, screaming and all-in good craic. The masses here make's Aiseirí look tame! So anyway good luck to you all, I'll see you in September for a quiet jar and a chat.
God Bless, Slán agus beannacht
Fergal Hanlon
